There’s an undeniable power in simplicity. Few garments embody this principle quite like the classic white t-shirt. Whether it conjures images of James Dean leaning casually against a wall or Marlon Brando radiating effortless cool in A Streetcar Named Desire, the white t-shirt remains a timeless sartorial staple for men.

Yet, because it is such a straightforward garment, wearing it with style requires paying attention to a few key details. Here’s how to make this understated icon a versatile part of your wardrobe.

How to Wear a White T-Shirt With Style

Distinguish It From an Undershirt

The original white T-shirt was designed as an undershirt and introduced as standard military issue for U.S. Navy sailors around the early 20th century. Today, you don’t want your white tee to be mistaken for its antecedent. You want it to read as an intentional, independent piece rather than an unkempt afterthought. 

To distinguish your white tee from an ordinary undershirt, make sure the fabric is thick and opaque (more on this below) and opt for a crewneck over a v-neck or scoop neck. Both of those styles read as more undershirt-like, and the latter has more of a trendy feel. Stick with a crewneck for a more timeless, classic look.

Fit Is Everything

The first rule for pulling off a white t-shirt is getting the fit right. Unlike patterned or colored shirts that can distract the eye, the white tee leaves little room for error. Here’s what to aim for:

• Shoulders: The seams should align with the edge of your shoulders, not hanging over or riding up.
• Sleeves: The shirt’s sleeves should hug your arms lightly without squeezing, ideally hitting about halfway down your biceps.
• Length: The tee should end around your belt line, allowing for some fabric to comfortably tuck in or remain neatly untucked without looking sloppy.
• Chest and Torso: The fit should skim your chest and midsection without clinging or sagging. A tailored, athletic fit typically works best.

Because you’re going to be washing your white tee on a hot/warm cycle (see below), get one that’s just a bit big to allow for shrinkage. 

Fabric Matters

Not all white tees are created equal, and the fabric impacts the drape, longevity, and comfort of your shirt. Select a shirt based on these factors:

• Material: Aim for high-quality, 100% cotton or a cotton blend with a medium weight. Avoid thin, translucent fabric; it should be opaque enough to maintain your modesty and present a clean, crisp look.
• Thickness: Reserve thinner, cheaper tees strictly for undershirts. Your outerwear white tee should stand firmly on its own.
• Texture: Opt for smooth, finely-knit fabrics rather than ribbed textures. Go for a classic crewneck; slub tees always look a little sloppy, and that’s especially true for a white one.

Even when you choose a quality white tee, don’t wear an undershirt underneath. It typically shows through, creating distracting lines. 

Keep It Clean

A white t-shirt is a bright, blank canvas on which any soil or stain will stand out. It’s only stylish if it remains crisp and clean. Here’s how to keep it pristine:

• Wash Separately: Keep white tees separate from colored garments to prevent color bleeding.
• Spot treat stains. If you get something on your shirt, hit it with a stain-treater like Shout right away. Then wash it in the water temp that’s best for getting out the particular stain: warm/hot for oil-based and sweat stains; cold for blood and protein-based stains.
• Address pit stains: White t-shirts will readily accumulate yellow pit stains. To treat them, apply a paste made from equal parts hydrogen peroxide and baking soda directly to the stained areas and let it sit for at least 30 minutes, or soak the shirt in water mixed with OxiClean according to package instructions. Then wash it in warm or hot water with regular detergent.

Accessorize Without Overdoing It

The white tee is a canvas for subtle details:

• Watches and Bracelets: A simple watch or leather bracelet adds subtle personality without overwhelming the look.
• Necklaces: Keep necklaces minimal and refined. A thin chain or small pendant works best.
• Hats: A simple baseball cap looks great paired with a white tee. 

Building Outfits Around the White Tee

One of the greatest assets of the white t-shirt is its versatility. Here are several ways to style it:

The Classic Rebel

Channel the iconic James Dean look:

• Pair your fitted white tee with dark jeans. Indigo, black, and gray all work well.
• Add a rugged leather belt and boots.
• In cooler weather, finish with a timeless jacket, like a leather motorcycle jacket or denim trucker.

Casual Weekend

Relaxed but refined:

• Pair the white tee with chinos or well-fitting shorts.
• Choose understated white sneakers or classic canvas slip-ons.
• Add a woven belt or minimalist watch for subtle detail.

Smart Casual

Dress up without losing comfort:

• Layer your white tee beneath an unstructured blazer.
• Opt for dark denim or tailored trousers.
• Complete with leather loafers or clean white sneakers.

Layered and Functional

For cooler seasons or casual layering:

• Wear under a lightweight cardigan, a flannel shirt, or a denim button-down.
• Ensure the layers complement each other without overly competing.
• Pair with jeans, chinos, or even casual wool trousers for colder weather.

Worn with confidence and attention to the small details of fit, fabric, and style, the white tee needn’t be a boring default. It can serve as both a simple staple and a handsome statement. 

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.