What makes a Viennese suit different? In this studio visit, bespoke tailor Hedi Rochowanski explains the hallmarks of the Viennese cut. Join us as we delve into the subtle details, relaxed silhouettes, and rich history of Austrian bespoke garments.
Discovering the Nuances of Viennese Bespoke Suits
A Tailor’s Tour of Austrian Style
Join Raphael as he visits bespoke tailor Hedi Rochowanski in her 8th bezirke (district) workshop in Vienna. Hedi provides a hands-on look at bespoke jackets and trousers currently in production, explaining the key features that define the relaxed yet elegant Viennese style, from shoulder construction to lapel shape.
Seen Vienna’s 1930s elegance?
Why This Matters for Your Wardrobe
Understanding the principles of Viennese tailoring can help you better articulate your own style preferences when commissioning a suit or buying off the rack. This guide offers valuable insights into achieving a look that is comfortable, elegant, and subtly distinctive, moving beyond the more common British and Italian styles.
“It’s not a suit for show. It’s like a suit to be more like be worn and be comfortable in…. And still you want to look elegant, but you don’t want to shout out, ‘Look at me. Look at my bespoke suit.’”
Hedi Rochowanski
Highlights from this Video
“I think the most important part about Viennese tailoring is the shoulder sleeve area.”
Want the key to the silhouette? Start here.
“Is that a typical pocket that’s slightly angled out?”
Curious how much tilt is “right”? Check this section.
“We do it in women’s tailoring. We do it in men’s tailoring.”
Watch this part to hear how one method serves both wardrobes.
“I think it’s … everything is very mild, you know, nothing is overexpressed.”
Tap to catch her philosophy in one line.
Follow Hedi on Instagram!
What We Were Wearing
Raphael keeps it classic in a navy two-button suit with a crisp white shirt and a dark brown printed tie. A Fort Belvedere Linen Pocket Square gives the breast pocket a clean, framed finish, and a discreet splash of Roberto Ugolini “Blue Suede Shoes” cologne adds a modern, refined note.
“My my aim to is to make a person even more the person he or she is.”
Hedi Rochowanski
Ask the Expert
What is the main difference between Viennese and British tailoring?
Viennese tailoring is generally more relaxed than the British style. It uses significantly less shoulder padding, creating a softer, more natural shoulder line. The overall silhouette is designed for comfort and wearability rather than the structured, stiff look often associated with British tailoring.
Is there a typical lapel style for a Viennese suit?
While it can vary based on the client, Viennese suits often feature soft, curved lines in the lapels rather than sharp, straight angles. The width is typically moderate—not too wide, not too narrow—and the gorge seam has a gentle curve, contributing to the overall understated elegance.
Are high-waisted trousers popular in Vienna?
Interestingly, no. Hedi notes that most of her Austrian clients prefer trousers that sit underneath the belly, rather than at the natural waist. While she personally advocates for the comfort and elegance of high-waisted trousers, the local preference currently leans towards a lower rise.
What to Watch Next
Explore Bel Etage for Art Nouveau & Art Deco Pieces
Tour a gallery of turn‑of‑the‑century treasures in Vienna with collector Wolfgang Bauer, and learn to discern craftsmanship and provenance.
The Origins of ESTORAS, an Artisan Viennese Fragrance House
Over coffee in Vienna, founder Paul‑Anton Esterházy shares how a 1920s family perfume and a Saharan journey inspired his luxury fragrance house.
Inside Wilhelm Jungmann & Neffe’s Historic Fabric House
Join a tour of Vienna’s oldest fabric emporium, stocked with thousands of fine silk and cashmere patterns upheld by 19th‑century tradition.
Leave a Reply