Spats, short for spatterdashes, are footwear accessories worn over shoes to shield them from dirt and water. Originating in the 1600s as practical gear, they morphed into stylish status symbols by the early 20th century. Yet, today, they’re a rare sight.

Why did men abandon them?

Here are the key reasons behind their decline, plus a look at whether they still have a place in modern fashion.

Reason #1: Sanitation Improved, and Spats Lost Their Purpose

In the 1600s, streets were not the cleanest places to stroll. Between poor waste disposal and horse-drawn transport, grime was part of everyday life. Spats emerged as a solution: protective coverings that shielded expensive riding boots from mud, filth, and manure.

By the Edwardian Era, spats had evolved from function to fashion. Clean, white spats became a status symbol—proof you could afford to keep them spotless. Royal endorsements, such as sightings of King George V wearing spats, only boosted their popularity.

King George V in formal military attire, with a pair of white spats displayed between two portraits
An alleged sighting of King George V wearing white spats helped popularize the accessory as a symbol of upper-class fashion during the Edwardian Era.

But with urban sanitation reforms and the rise of automobiles, streets grew cleaner, and the protective role of spats faded. They became purely ornamental, often worn to add a two-tone contrast over shoes. That aesthetic need was soon filled by spectator shoes, which offered the same visual appeal without the added layer.

How to Wear Spectator Shoes

Spats vs. Spectators: What They Look Like in an Outfit

Close-up of tan wool spats with mottled buttons, fastened over black lizard-skin Church’s Derby shoes
Vintage tan wool spats paired with black lizard-skin Church’s Derby shoes

To this day, some people confuse two-tone footwear with spats, calling pretty much any shoe with two colors a pair of spats. Well, let me show you the difference with the spats I’m wearing in today’s outfit.

These are a vintage pair of wool spats that feature a beautiful mottled color on the buttons. They’re fastened underneath the shoes with a leather strap and secured with a buckle in a silver tone.

The shoes themselves are a pair of vintage Church’s in black lizard skin. They’re a plain-toe Derby, making them an excellent choice to pair with spats, as there’s little to no conflicting details interrupting the lines of each other.

I’m matching the silver tones with a pair of our Predator and Prey cufflinks—this model is the Lion and Gazelle. They’re fastening the cuffs of my CLM-quality shirt from Turnbull & Asser.

The trousers I’m wearing are an extremely weighty cavalry twill, which I’ve chosen as an alternative to a gray flannel for a slightly modern twist on a stroller suit ensemble. The jacket is also vintage, most likely from the 1930s, due to details such as the ventless back and the style of the 4×1 buttoning stance.

Other accessories include a cream silk pocket square from Drake’s and a silver-tone tie to lean into the stroller suit aesthetic and harmonize with the other silver elements of the ensemble—including my vintage Lincoln watch with a silver case and a gray strap.

For the cufflinks, tie, and a range of other accessories and fragrances fit for the classic style enthusiast’s wardrobe, head over to the Fort Belvedere shop.

Silver & Black Double Stripe Twill Stripe Silk Tie

Fort Belvedere

Silver & Black Double Stripe Twill Stripe Silk Tie

Lion & Gazelle Blackened Sterling Silver Cufflinks

Fort Belvedere

Lion & Gazelle Blackened Sterling Silver Cufflinks

Reason #2: Changing Values: From Flex to Faux Pas

In the early 20th century, wearing clean, pale-colored spats was a subtle way to flaunt wealth and social standing. The more impractical the color, the more prestige they conveyed.

However, this extravagant gesture quickly lost its appeal during the Great Depression. As hardship became widespread, flashy accessories came to be seen as tone-deaf. The era called for frugality and modesty, not flamboyance.

World-War-II “Make It Do” propaganda posters flanking a 1930s man in a brown suit
Wartime propaganda urged citizens to “Make Do,” turning lavish extras—spats included—into symbols of wastefulness.

This cultural shift intensified during World War II. Excess was considered unpatriotic, and accessories like spats—especially when contrasted with the utilitarian gaiters worn by soldiers—felt inappropriate. The association with pre-war glamor and upper-class arrogance hastened their decline.

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Reason #3: Spats Became Costumey

Pop culture hasn’t been kind to spats.

Cartoons, films, and songs like “Puttin’ on the Ritz” often used them to signal “Old Money” or caricature villains and gangsters—think Al Capone or vaudeville dandies. Over time, they became a visual shorthand for outdated snobbery or theatrical flair.

Al Capone seated with associates, white spats visible—classic gangster trope.

Real-life gangsters like Al Capone wore spats, reinforcing their later cartoonish, “costume” reputation.

1940s Batman comic cover of Penguin in spats beside modern Joker figurine.

From Penguin’s white spats to the flamboyant Joker, comics cemented spats as a villain’s costume cue.

Vintage vocal quartet at Capitol mic—reference to “Puttin’ on the Ritz” era that mocked upper-class spats.

Pop-music acts poked fun at “old-money” style—songs like “Puttin’ on the Ritz” turned spats into a theatrical punch-line.

This baggage makes spats a tough sell today. Outside of niche vintage communities, they’re often dismissed as costume rather than clothing.

From Thrift Rack to Sartorial Rack

Reason #4: High Maintenance to Wear

Part of the appeal of spats was their demand for cleanliness. But that quickly became a drawback.

Spats, especially in white or light grey, were prone to staining. They featured buckles, buttons, piping, and leather straps—materials that couldn’t simply be tossed into a wash with your shirts and socks. Each pair required hand-cleaning, often after every wear.

Close-up of light-tan wool spats showing buttons, stitching, and leather buckle strap
Light-colored wool spats—with delicate buttons, stitching, and a leather under-strap—were magnets for stains and demanded meticulous hand care.

As domestic help became less common and households modernized, this level of upkeep felt excessive. People opted for easier-care clothing, and non-essential accessories like spats were the first to go.

Reason #5: Casualization of Footwear

Even the most elegant pair of spats needs a solid base—a pair of well-polished dress shoes. But in recent decades, daily style has moved far from formalwear.

Sneakers, sandals, loafers, and even “frankenshoes” have taken over. With fewer people wearing oxfords or derbies regularly, the idea of layering spats on top feels alien to most.

Even in classic menswear circles, many opt for more practical alternatives, leaving spats to those with an especially dedicated aesthetic.

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Reason #6: Better Technology Replaced Them

Spats were originally meant to keep your feet clean and dry—but modern materials do that better.

Rubberized boots, waterproof leather, synthetic insoles, and even high-quality galoshes outperform spats in practically every way. Plus, with streets far cleaner today than a century ago, the need for foot coverings is minimal in urban life.

Close-up of rain-soaked rubber boots
Rubber rain boots and waterproof leather footwear now do what spats once did—only better and with less upkeep.

For actual outdoor use, most people now turn to durable boots or overshoes designed with modern performance in mind.

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So… Can You Still Wear Spats?

Absolutely. But know what you’re getting into.

Even among classic menswear enthusiasts, spats are rare. When worn, they’re typically part of a carefully curated look inspired by a specific historical period. Think stroller suits, morning dress, or button boots—not your everyday business casual.

White cotton spats with metal buttons on display at A. Marchesan, alongside leather dress shoes and vintage shoe sketches.
A. Marchesan in Sweden still crafts high-quality reproduction spats.

That said, if you like the look, there’s no reason not to make them part of your signature style. Quality vintage or reproduction pairs can be found through specialty shops or platforms like Etsy, eBay, and A. Marchesan in Sweden.

Tip: To wear them successfully, pair them with dress shoes—not sneakers—and carry the look with confidence.

Conclusion

Spats moved from practical necessity to social status symbol to nostalgic relic. Their disappearance mirrors a broader shift toward utility, simplicity, and low-maintenance fashion.

But for those who appreciate the drama and elegance of bygone styles, spats offer a distinctive, head-turning statement—equal parts history and style.

Do you think spats deserve a comeback? Share your thoughts below!

Frequently Asked Questions

What are spats?

Spats are coverings you put around your shoes as an accessory. They were originally designed with the practical purpose of protecting your shoes from grime, but later were just worn for the aesthetic.

When and where did spats originate?

Spats originated in Europe, with early forms appearing in the 17th century, particularly in France and England. They were initially known as spatterdashes and used by soldiers to protect their boots and lower trousers from mud, rain, and rough terrain. Over time, this military utility evolved into civilian fashion, especially among the aristocracy and upper class.

What are the different types of spats?

There are several types of spats, distinguished by purpose, material, and design:

  • Military Spats/Gaiters: Originally used by infantry, typically made from heavy canvas or leather and worn for protection.
  • Formal/Dress Spats: Made from wool, cotton, or felt, these are often white or grey and were worn over dress shoes with morning dress or stroller suits.
  • Ceremonial Spats: Still used in some military parades and honor guards; they’re more decorative and uniform-focused.
  • Costume Spats: Common in theatrical or vintage-inspired outfits, these are often made from synthetic materials and focus more on aesthetics than function.

Each type reflects a different use case, from practical protection to purely decorative flair.

Why are spats no longer worn?

Spats lost their practical purpose once cities became cleaner and society moved more towards a utilitarian worldview.

Can I wear spats today?

While spats are extremely rare and seen as costumey by some, someone can still wear spats if they choose, and can be a great statement piece for the right personality. 

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